Harbour City Ramblings

Today I bring you the tale of a fair Canadian girl who spent 3 days at the Wies’n and barely walked out alive. Please take a few minutes out of your day to read her story and consider donating to the “Alyssa needs a new liver” fund. (Thank you in advance!)

Munich, Germany & the Wies’n Camp

We arrived in Munich on the night train from Venice around 7:00am on Wednesday, Sept. 24th. Coming from countries like Greece and Italy we found it to be extremely frigid, apparently the whole of Bavaria was in the middle of a cold-snap, the high being a mere 10 degrees! Lucky us.

Our accommodations for the 3 nights were located a short Metro trip away from downtown Munich. So we hopped on the S2-Line, showed up at the Wies’n Camp and were checked into our tent on the grounds of the Olympic Horse Stadium by 9:00am. With little else to do at that hour, our journey to Oktoberfest was finally about to begin. And considering it was the first item on our must-do’s list, and the pinnacle of the Eurotrip, why not take advantage of our time to shine in the least sober way possible.

The Theresienwiese grounds (or the Wies’n to the locals) are where the festivities have been held since 1810. With 6 local Bavarian breweries, 16 days of festivities, a dozen beer tents (each accommodating 100,000 people), plus a plethora of food, rides, fun-houses and games… Who wouldn’t feel like a kid in a candy store?

Day 1: Wednesday
Hours of Drinking: 8

The first day it started out as just Dylan and I, one table, and a bunch of 1-Litre beers. By noon the tents are packed and it’s rare to find room to sit, which is key as you won’t be served unless you’re seated. We went to only two tents that day. In the second tent we were seated by 2:00pm next to a fabulous German couple from up north. Soon enough another group of 4 older Munich gentlemen squished in… and the rest is a blur! But from the photos Dylan managed to take, I’m certain we all got along beautifully!

Day 2: Thursday
Hours of Drinking: 9.5

We were 30 mins. late for our planned 10:00am meeting with Brian and Elizabeth. But when we arrived at the church much to our surprise Walt and Natasha were standing there! That was awesome, and they even brought their very cool friend, a German from further east, Annette. Brian showed up shortly after, and Elizabeth was on her way. But the first thing they did was head out to find some hats, gloves and warmer clothing, since Brian was coming from Phoenix with weather at least 20 degrees warmer (on a bad day) he couldn’t handle the cold! Understandable, I’m a Manitoban and found it bad.

We hit our tent by 11:00am and consumed a lot of beer and bullshitted with our amazing new friends for a solid many hours. Unfortunately we had to give up our table around 5:00pm as it were- unbeknown to us- Reserved. With no hope of fitting us all in elsewhere, Dylan, Brian, Elizabeth and I parted ways with the other three and headed for Elizabeth’s find the day prior- Bollywood Restaurant.

We drank more beer and dined… but realized we didn’t do Oktoberfest to the fullest, so we would meet again tomorrow at noon.

Day 3: Friday
Hours of Drinking: 9.5

Waking up on day 3 was rough enough, but we managed to find Brian shortly before 1:00pm and headed onto the grounds. It being a Friday, we weren’t even able to find a table inside any of the tents. So, thirsty enough already we gave up quickly and settled for a table right outside a tent, still within earshot of the band. We managed to throw back a few Litres of beer before Elizabeth joined us to start playing catch-up.

Again, not all details stuck with me from around 4:00pm on, but we met a ton of cool locals. I met two lovely ladies, one of Munich and one of Nuremberg, and we exchanged details for my future visits.

Since we managed to stay until very late this last night, we witnessed quite a bit of craziness, including dancing on tables, loss of clothing, a few of our female table-mates sharing some intimate moments, plenty of singing the official Oktoberfest song and much more debauchery than one should endure in a lifetime.

Total Days at Oktoberfest: 3
Total Hours of Drinking: 27

All-in-all the lack of memories, the amazing partially-blurry-memories, the beer spilled, the pretzels and 1/2 rotisserie Hend’ls (chickens) consumed, and the new friends made were well worth the hangovers… And even worth the passing-out alone on the Metro after Day 3 only to be awoken by a pack of 16-year-olds (who think playing Franz Ferdinand covers in their band are cool) at 2:00am at the very last stop of the S2-Line, and having to wait 50 mins. in 0 Degree weather to catch the next Metro 6 stops back to the Wies’n Camp grounds whilst learning cool new German phrases… Yes, even that was worth it.

Thanks again kids.

The vague memories will be with me forever. The liver damage as well sadly. I cannot wait to one day return to the Wies’n for another awesome and authentic Oktoberfest experience. Maybe I’ll find that dignity I think I left under a table in one of those tents? Hmmm…

Pictures from Oktoberfest 2008

Along with the bizarre second meeting of Brian and Elizabeth in Rome on Monday, Sept. 22nd- also the Anniversary of Lost and the crash of Oceanic Flight 815 just 4 years back- a couple other strange occurrences happened.

In Search of Caesar

After seeing the Vatican Museum and other sights in Rome that morning, we had yet to do one of the top things on my Rome list: Finding the site where Julius Caesar was assassinated on March 15th, 44 BC.  Even with all the bad omens, and warnings of negative dreams from his wife Calpurnia, Caesar’s good friend Brutus- one of the 60 conspirators in the assassination- encouraged him to go forth to Senate that day. Shortly after addressing the senate, he fell dead at the foot of Pompey’s statue succumbing to multiple stab wounds.

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On Monday night we took an overnight train from Rome to Venice. We arrived around 7am and had a full day to check out the city before departing via another night train to Munich, Germany at 10:50pm.

Our Venetian experience began when we stepped aboard a little passenger boat in order to get from one side of the city to another through the Grand Canal. Boat is truly the only way to get around, considering the whole of Venice is comprised of 118 islands.

We managed to sit directly at the front of our boat, and it was a clear day with just a few clouds on the horizon as the sun was rising and we motored on in. Our first stop was the infamous Piazza San Marco with it’s towering bell-tower, flocks of pigeons, tons of tourists and beautiful basilica.

The Doge’s Palace

We hadn’t planned out the day or even really knew what all there was to see, so we decided to take a tour inside the Doge’s Palace. The palace was previously the past Mayor’s dwelling and contained court, state and administration rooms, but is now a museum. There’s a spectacular fireplace in each of the many rooms, and some beautiful artwork including the largest oil painting in the world, Tintoretto’s “Paradise.” Having come from the Vatican Museum the day before, the artwork paled in comparison. But the armory, and a few floors of prison cells were very cool.

The trek to the prison was by far the best part though, as we walked the Bridge of Sighs. And unfortunately for those viewing it from the outside, it’s currently mostly covered in advertisements to hide the restoration work. So I’m plenty content we went in the Doge’s Palace and walked first-hand the path prisoners would have walked, peering out the tiny windows and sighing, knowing it were their last glimpse of freedom.

The Island of Murano

The rest of the day we wandered the labyrinth of back-streets and hopped over to the glass-blowing island of Murano, which is exactly as it sounds- glass factories and hundreds of shops to sell their products. We wandered down an alleyway and got to watch the process at the Formia Furnace.

All-in-all our day in Venice was a relaxing one, and we basically just took in the stunning city separated by it’s hundreds of tiny canals and one main one- the Grand Canal- which is 50 meters wide as it’s best, with only 3 bridges to cross it… That’s why all the gondolas.

That night, awaiting our train, we met a cool couple, Walt and Natasha, originally of South Africa. When they sat down we got to talking and sure enough they were headed to Oktoberfest. We informed them that we planned to meet Brian and Elizabeth Thursday morning and if they were up for it to stop by and hit some tents with us. Hey, the more the merrier.

Enough relaxation though, it’s time to endure some hard-earned drinking. Oktoberfest here I come…

Too many bizarre occurrences in the last couple of weeks, I’m starting to realize you sometimes have to just sit back and let the super-unknowns do their dirty work while you go along for the ride.

Meeting Brian & Elizabeth

Our second to last day in Amsterdam, a new couple arrived late one afternoon to the bunk across from Dylan and I. As it turned put there were incredibly friendly Americans: Brian of Phoenix and Elizabeth of Boston. We got to talking and they were also traveling Western Europe for an entire month, including some of the very same cities on our itinerary.

It was odd enough to encounter a couple from our very own continent, as the majority of people there were from Australia, the UK, other parts of Europe, or unidentifiable non-English speakers. The perfect part was their Oktoberfest dates landed on Sept. 24th, 25th, and 26th… The very same three days we were going. So of course we exchanged details and planned to meet up for a night of debauchery and 1-Liter German beer consuming.

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I believe I’ve changed my mind. I will have to retrieve my heart I had hoped to leave in Greece. Italy takes the cake.

Palatine Hill

We arrived an hour later than expected (thanks a lot Olympic airlines) into Rome Saturday night around 9:00pm. After a rough partial-sleep on the ferry from Crete to Athens that morning, and wandering Athens during the day in the pouring rain, all we wanted when we touched down in Rome was a horizontal spot to rest that wasn’t swaying back and forth over the sea.

Colors Boutique Hotel

Dylan had found and booked a room at Colors, a boutique hotel and hostel located within a 10-minute walk of Vatican City. Incredible place with extremely helpful staff, in an area where we weren’t paying an arm and a leg to eat or sleep.

We had a 3-person dorm with our own sink and shower for 2 nights. The first girl using up the other bed we hardly spoke to as she was in late and out by 5:00am.

The second night we met Rachel. Rachel was very cool to talk to as she was from Israel, and managed to give us the rundown, very passionately, on the history of Israel within the first 5 minutes of our encounter. She told us how boring Canada was as “nothing happens there,” but her enthusiasm and encouragement made me want to some day visit her in Israel.

The Colosseum & Gianicolo Hill

We were up bright and early on Sunday, Sept. 21st, knowing there was plenty to see in Rome. Our first stop was the Colosseum, which was free with the €20 Roma Pass we picked up, along with free entrance to another museum, discounts on all others, and free Metro, Bus and Tram use for 3 days. Outstanding deal.

The Colosseum, built in AD 80, was stunning. We spent a good hour there before passing Palatine Hill, putting our hands inside the Mouth of Truth and heading over the Tiber River to the Trastevere area for paninis. We then wandered up Gianicolo Hill for a few hours to take in exceptional views of the entire Ancient City.

Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon & Piazza Navona

In the afternoon we threw our coins in the Trevi Fountain and gasped at the sight of the 2000-year old Pantheon. We dined near the beautiful Castel Sant’Angelo on an exceptional (and best I have ever had) pizza and wine. That fueled us for the remainder of the evening of walking and taking in dozens of monuments and various squares including the truly Italian experience of Piazza Navona, previously an AD 1st Century stadium.

After the sun went down we strolled past the Piazza’s various vendors and artists. From one end where the sound of accordions filled the air, to the opposite end where we got up close and personal with the Fountain of Four Rivers as a busker played his rendition of one of my favourite songs on his weathered acoustic guitar- Pink Floyd’s “Wish You Were Here.”

With sore feet on Monday, Sept. 22nd- the 4 year anniversary of Lost- we checked out of Colors and deposited our backpacks at the train station and made our way again to the Trastevere area for a pasta lunch. In all honesty this was the first pasta I had in Rome, and I hate to say it but the Spaghetti Carbonara I had in Paris was a million times better. But, we had free WiFi and got in touch with our American buddies we met in Amsterdam, Brian and Elizabeth and sent some e-mails home, which is always nice.

Vatican City & The Sistine Chapel

Afterwards we made our way to Vatican City. Our first stop was the Vatican Museum, as we had to get in before 3pm in order to see it all before 4:30pm when they start kicking the art-lovers out.

We saw a slew of ancient artifacts, statues and tapestries though the maze of rooms, each painted from top to bottom with exceptional detail, leading up to the undeniable highlight: The Sistine Chapel.

Walking slowly with the flood of people into the Sistine Chapel I made certain not to look up until fully inside and beneath Michelangelo’s masterpiece, which was completed in the 16th Century. Craning my neck upwards it felt as though the world had come to a complete halt, and the sight of it- as cliche as it sounds- brought a tear to my eye. I really can’t even begin to describe it, and I won’t attempt to- it has to be seen to be believed.

We wandered St. Peter’s Basilica for a bit until our legs really needed a rest. That night we headed back towards the train station and unbelievably ran into Brian and Elizabeth. They were off elsewhere so Dylan and I, with a few hours to kill, found an amazing fresh pasta spot for dinner and wined and dined until we couldn’t lift our forks anymore. Two hours later on the way back once again we ran into Brian and Elizabeth on the Metro and followed them to the Spanish Steps to plan our Oktoberfest meeting for Thursday.

The night we took our first night train from Rome to Venice, killing two birds with one stone as we saved on accommodations and got our commute in. Venice is a whole other city and story to tell. But I sure am glad to have thrown that coin in the Trevi Fountain, as I am now ensured a speedy return in the future to breath-taking Rome… Where I really am leaving my heart.

Maybe I’m just exhausted, maybe I’m a little sad to leave Greece behind after an amazing week in the sun… But my father’s recollections were correct- Heraklion is ugly! I’ve seen a lot of cities in my day, but it’s up there as the least attractive cities I have ever had the displeasure to pass through.

No offense to anyone else on the gorgeous isle of Crete, of course, as I have learned since traveling here that Cretans first take pride in their island, and then their country. But Heraklion is in desperate need of a face-lift. Luckily we were a good two hours away, in the remote village of Analipsi, Makrigialos.

We spent last Saturday in Berlin, Germany, checking out sites such as the remnants of the Berlin Wall, including the Topography of Terror which walks you right through the History of it exceptionally well. Then Saturday night we departed to the Heraklion airport on the southern Greek island of Crete. We may have landed at 11:00pm… But it was still a humid 25 degrees out, which gave us an idea of what to expect that week.

We then retrieved our luggage and left the terminal to a movie-like-moment of Dylan’s name displayed on a sign- and there waited our ride: an M&M-green, drop-top Chevy Matiz.

The drive from Heraklion (located on central-north Crete) to south-eastern Makrigialos took us just under 2 hours. We obviously couldn’t see too many sights in the dark, but we had the car all week to explore the amazing island.

We literally swam in the sea daily. We visited various beaches, each with their own character- from white to beige sand, rocky steep white cliffs, to multi-coloured pebbles. All located at the edge of the illustrious, clean and clear aquablue Aegean sea. I hate to have cheated on my beloved Pacific Ocean, but I truly fell in love.

The island of Crete is peppered with various small villages throughout the valleys beneath it’s multiple mountain ranges. Each area has at least half a dozen Medieval or Minoan sites, caves and gorges to explore.

One of the few we walked through was just north of Makrigialos, near Sitia, a Venetian Village from the early 1700’s called Etia. Most buildings including the church are still standing, it was incredible.

Villea Village Resort

Our hotel in Analipsi was an incredible last-minute find through work. Villea Village Resort was literally 100 meters from our favourite Cretan beach and had everything we could possibly need. We met the owner, Vasili, who takes groups out daily on gorge-walks, and samples local Cretan wines and olive oils at night.

We also got to know our bartender, Nikko, at Fisherman Jack’s Poolside Bar well, as they had a wide selection of board games, an array of available afternoon snacks, and a friendly team of staff to educate and entertain the guests. Amazing people and an amazing little village that I will definitely revisit in the future.

As for today, we found ourselves off Crete and exploring a few sites in Athens. At the moment we’re awaiting our (unfortunately delayed until 6pm) flight to Rome, Italy for a few days in the Ancient City. First thing tomorrow I’m hoping to check out the site of Caesar’s assassination, and the Colosseum, to name just a few spots. Until then… Here is hoping I’ll hold onto this tan I picked up in Greece!