Meeting Brian & Elizabeth

Our second to last day in Amsterdam, a new couple arrived late one afternoon to the bunk across from Dylan and I. As it turned put there were incredibly friendly Americans: Brian of Phoenix and Elizabeth of Boston. We got to talking and they were also traveling Western Europe for an entire month, including some of the very same cities on our itinerary.

It was odd enough to encounter a couple from our very own continent, as the majority of people there were from Australia, the UK, other parts of Europe, or unidentifiable non-English speakers. The perfect part was their Oktoberfest dates landed on Sept. 24th, 25th, and 26th… The very same three days we were going. So of course we exchanged details and planned to meet up for a night of debauchery and 1-Liter German beer consuming.

As the next couple of weeks went on we kept in touch by e-mail, Brian on his Blackberry and us on our iPhones… though only when we found a free WiFi connection (not always easy). And we heard from Dylan’s best friend Rob, an Italian who spends a month back in his home-land annually, that finding WiFi in Italy would be next to impossible. He was right on the money. Luckily Sunday afternoon as we dined on pasta, beer and wine down a narrow Roman alley-way we found a WiFi connection, got our Internet fix and checked in on life back home. As it turned out Brian messaged Dylan informing us he were in Rome for the next couple of days, and Elizabeth was joining him tomorrow. That was unexpected and exciting but unfortunately we hadn’t the time to meet up, so we again planned for Oktoberfest in the few days following.

Monday, Sept. 22nd, after another day of sight-seeing and before departing to Venice via night train, we decided to take the Metro closer to the train station for another pasta dinner. Exhausted with sore feet on one of a dozen cars of the very same Metro line who did we encounter? Brian and Elizabeth. Unfortunately they were off two stops before ours to grab a free dinner at their Hostel, and we only had a few hours to eat before departing. So yes, again we planned to meet at Oktoberfest.

After dinner and discussions of how surreal that meeting was, we hopped back on the Metro. Just as we were about to get off, Dylan spotted them getting on the same train one door down. We weren’t willing to kick ourselves a second time for not stopping to chat, so we stayed on the train and surprised the daylights out of them. We pretty well decided right then there was no denying we were meant to be friends.

Certainly an outstanding decision as we kept in touch and partied hard at Oktoberfest with our dear new friends for life, Brian and Elizabeth.

Palatine Hill

We arrived an hour later than expected (thanks a lot Olympic airlines) into Rome Saturday night around 9:00pm. After a rough partial-sleep on the ferry from Crete to Athens that morning, and wandering Athens during the day in the pouring rain, all we wanted when we touched down in Rome was a horizontal spot to rest that wasn’t swaying back and forth over the sea.

Colors Boutique Hotel

Dylan had found and booked a room at Colors, a boutique hotel and hostel located within a 10-minute walk of Vatican City. Incredible place with extremely helpful staff, in an area where we weren’t paying an arm and a leg to eat or sleep.

We had a 3-person dorm with our own sink and shower for 2 nights. The first girl using up the other bed we hardly spoke to as she was in late and out by 5:00am.

The second night we met Rachel. Rachel was very cool to talk to as she was from Israel, and managed to give us the rundown, very passionately, on the history of Israel within the first 5 minutes of our encounter. She told us how boring Canada was as “nothing happens there,” but her enthusiasm and encouragement made me want to some day visit her in Israel.

The Colosseum & Gianicolo Hill

We were up bright and early on Sunday, Sept. 21st, knowing there was plenty to see in Rome. Our first stop was the Colosseum, which was free with the €20 Roma Pass we picked up, along with free entrance to another museum, discounts on all others, and free Metro, Bus and Tram use for 3 days. Outstanding deal.

The Colosseum, built in AD 80, was stunning. We spent a good hour there before passing Palatine Hill, putting our hands inside the Mouth of Truth and heading over the Tiber River to the Trastevere area for paninis. We then wandered up Gianicolo Hill for a few hours to take in exceptional views of the entire Ancient City.

Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon & Piazza Navona

In the afternoon we threw our coins in the Trevi Fountain and gasped at the sight of the 2000-year old Pantheon. We dined near the beautiful Castel Sant’Angelo on an exceptional (and best I have ever had) pizza and wine. That fueled us for the remainder of the evening of walking and taking in dozens of monuments and various squares including the truly Italian experience of Piazza Navona, previously an AD 1st Century stadium.

After the sun went down we strolled past the Piazza’s various vendors and artists. From one end where the sound of accordions filled the air, to the opposite end where we got up close and personal with the Fountain of Four Rivers as a busker played his rendition of one of my favourite songs on his weathered acoustic guitar- Pink Floyd’s “Wish You Were Here.”

With sore feet on Monday, Sept. 22nd- the 4 year anniversary of Lost- we checked out of Colors and deposited our backpacks at the train station and made our way again to the Trastevere area for a pasta lunch. In all honesty this was the first pasta I had in Rome, and I hate to say it but the Spaghetti Carbonara I had in Paris was a million times better. But, we had free WiFi and got in touch with our American buddies we met in Amsterdam, Brian and Elizabeth and sent some e-mails home, which is always nice.

Vatican City & The Sistine Chapel

Afterwards we made our way to Vatican City. Our first stop was the Vatican Museum, as we had to get in before 3pm in order to see it all before 4:30pm when they start kicking the art-lovers out.

We saw a slew of ancient artifacts, statues and tapestries though the maze of rooms, each painted from top to bottom with exceptional detail, leading up to the undeniable highlight: The Sistine Chapel.

Walking slowly with the flood of people into the Sistine Chapel I made certain not to look up until fully inside and beneath Michelangelo’s masterpiece, which was completed in the 16th Century. Craning my neck upwards it felt as though the world had come to a complete halt, and the sight of it- as cliche as it sounds- brought a tear to my eye. I really can’t even begin to describe it, and I won’t attempt to- it has to be seen to be believed.

We wandered St. Peter’s Basilica for a bit until our legs really needed a rest. That night we headed back towards the train station and unbelievably ran into Brian and Elizabeth. They were off elsewhere so Dylan and I, with a few hours to kill, found an amazing fresh pasta spot for dinner and wined and dined until we couldn’t lift our forks anymore. Two hours later on the way back once again we ran into Brian and Elizabeth on the Metro and followed them to the Spanish Steps to plan our Oktoberfest meeting for Thursday.

The night we took our first night train from Rome to Venice, killing two birds with one stone as we saved on accommodations and got our commute in. Venice is a whole other city and story to tell. But I sure am glad to have thrown that coin in the Trevi Fountain, as I am now ensured a speedy return in the future to breath-taking Rome… Where I really am leaving my heart.

This evening we were privileged to be at the last show on Pennywise’s European tour- something they made very clear they were extremely stoked about as well.

They played at a venue that was previously an old factory. These days the Melkweg houses multiple rooms in it’s various areas for cinema, dance and theatre productions, art and photography exhibits, and- in the “the Max” area- concerts. It’s one of the two concert halls under the same roof and has standing-room-only anywhere you’d like- balcony, bar stool, steps or floor (with no barricade between crowd and stage) for a mere 1,000 people. The sound was within it’s tightly enclosed brick walls was pretty impressive.

A Wilhelm Scream opened with huge energy. Shortly after their brief set Pennywise took over with a wide range of old and new. From Broken, Living for Today, Pennywise, Perfect People, One Reason, Society and of course ending with Bro Hymn.

Now, I’ve seen Pennywise before in a way, though I don’t think I’ll count it, as it was at Warped Tour a few years back. And I recall listening to them (only, I know) around 10, maybe just under a dozen or so years ago… That made me feel a little old! Their experience and that venue this evening made for an amazing show here in Amsterdam.

We touched down in Frankfurt, Germany on Sunday around 4:30pm local time. Upon arriving at the airport we quickly regained our strength at one of the many airport cafes, dinning on tomato soup (or more so, delicious tomato paste), frankfurters and cold beer. Much to my dismay Frankfurt was a practically unbearable 30 degrees… Didn’t much help to have 16 kilos of clothing strapped to my back!

The Netherlands

We had an ICE Train reservation for 7pm to the small Dutch town of Arnhem, a couple hours west of Frankfurt. The train system here is incredible. We moved at a speed of 250 Km+ at times through south-west German rolling plains into the Netherlands.

We were greeted at the Arnhem Central Station by an old family friend of Dylan’s, Stijn. We were then fortunate enough to spend the next few days getting accustomed to the European lifestyle at the home of Stijn, Mim, and their two beautiful young girls, Mirre and Evie in Elst, the Netherlands.

The Horse Market

On Monday, Sept. 1st, we awoke sans jet lag and attended a horse market that has been going on annually in Elst, since 1200. Horse breeders from all across Europe lined the cobble-stoned streets with hundreds of their horses. If you want the best deal on the most impressive horse you’re there at 5am… Luckily we were not. We biked in by 8am, and had a beer in hand by 9am.

Seated next to a table of 4 local gentlemen, I was offered a horse for a mere €40! Unfortunately I don’t believe my landlady Opal would allow it in my tiny flat.

Kinderdijk

The next few days were spent wide-eyed touring the southern Netherlands. We wandered the modern markets and shopping areas of Rotterdam, visited the oldest city in the Netherlands, Nijmegen (an ancient Roman settlement), took a tour of Mim’s coffee factory, and drank a lot of beer- which goes without saying. The highlight was definitely the 250 year old windmills in Kinderdiijk.

Antwerp, Belgium

Wednesday we reluctantly left our incredibly accommodating tour guide, Stijn, behind, as well as the comfort of their home in Elst and hopped on a train headed west.

Our destination was an unexpected one, we spent the night in Antwerp, Belgium last night. A decision I’m most happy we made. This was the first Hostel experience for both Dylan and I. We used his handy Let’s Go: Western Europe book and located the New International Youth Hostel about a 15 min. walk from the Antwerp Central Station. As the book states, it is a well-worn place, but it was most enjoyable and we met folks from all across Europe.

Antwerp itself is stunning, a melting pot of cultures, amazing architecture and world famous fries (to die for, especially with garlic sauce!).

At the moment we’re south-bound on the Thalys to Paris, then we will head north straight-away. Our official plan is to spend a night or two in the northern sea-side town of Dieppe, France, and get our Paris sight-seeing in most likely on Saturday. Dylan’s not big on the French culture, something to do with the French Immersion kids clashing with his English classmates back in his Elementary School days- so we’ll see how he fares with all the berets and croissants…