Harbour City Ramblings

Along with the bizarre second meeting of Brian and Elizabeth in Rome on Monday, Sept. 22nd- also the Anniversary of Lost and the crash of Oceanic Flight 815 just 4 years back- a couple other strange occurrences happened.

In Search of Caesar

After seeing the Vatican Museum and other sights in Rome that morning, we had yet to do one of the top things on my Rome list: Finding the site where Julius Caesar was assassinated on March 15th, 44 BC.  Even with all the bad omens, and warnings of negative dreams from his wife Calpurnia, Caesar’s good friend Brutus- one of the 60 conspirators in the assassination- encouraged him to go forth to Senate that day. Shortly after addressing the senate, he fell dead at the foot of Pompey’s statue succumbing to multiple stab wounds.

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On Monday night we took an overnight train from Rome to Venice. We arrived around 7am and had a full day to check out the city before departing via another night train to Munich, Germany at 10:50pm.

Our Venetian experience began when we stepped aboard a little passenger boat in order to get from one side of the city to another through the Grand Canal. Boat is truly the only way to get around, considering the whole of Venice is comprised of 118 islands.

We managed to sit directly at the front of our boat, and it was a clear day with just a few clouds on the horizon as the sun was rising and we motored on in. Our first stop was the infamous Piazza San Marco with it’s towering bell-tower, flocks of pigeons, tons of tourists and beautiful basilica.

The Doge’s Palace

We hadn’t planned out the day or even really knew what all there was to see, so we decided to take a tour inside the Doge’s Palace. The palace was previously the past Mayor’s dwelling and contained court, state and administration rooms, but is now a museum. There’s a spectacular fireplace in each of the many rooms, and some beautiful artwork including the largest oil painting in the world, Tintoretto’s “Paradise.” Having come from the Vatican Museum the day before, the artwork paled in comparison. But the armory, and a few floors of prison cells were very cool.

The trek to the prison was by far the best part though, as we walked the Bridge of Sighs. And unfortunately for those viewing it from the outside, it’s currently mostly covered in advertisements to hide the restoration work. So I’m plenty content we went in the Doge’s Palace and walked first-hand the path prisoners would have walked, peering out the tiny windows and sighing, knowing it were their last glimpse of freedom.

The Island of Murano

The rest of the day we wandered the labyrinth of back-streets and hopped over to the glass-blowing island of Murano, which is exactly as it sounds- glass factories and hundreds of shops to sell their products. We wandered down an alleyway and got to watch the process at the Formia Furnace.

All-in-all our day in Venice was a relaxing one, and we basically just took in the stunning city separated by it’s hundreds of tiny canals and one main one- the Grand Canal- which is 50 meters wide as it’s best, with only 3 bridges to cross it… That’s why all the gondolas.

That night, awaiting our train, we met a cool couple, Walt and Natasha, originally of South Africa. When they sat down we got to talking and sure enough they were headed to Oktoberfest. We informed them that we planned to meet Brian and Elizabeth Thursday morning and if they were up for it to stop by and hit some tents with us. Hey, the more the merrier.

Enough relaxation though, it’s time to endure some hard-earned drinking. Oktoberfest here I come…

Too many bizarre occurrences in the last couple of weeks, I’m starting to realize you sometimes have to just sit back and let the super-unknowns do their dirty work while you go along for the ride.

Meeting Brian & Elizabeth

Our second to last day in Amsterdam, a new couple arrived late one afternoon to the bunk across from Dylan and I. As it turned put there were incredibly friendly Americans: Brian of Phoenix and Elizabeth of Boston. We got to talking and they were also traveling Western Europe for an entire month, including some of the very same cities on our itinerary.

It was odd enough to encounter a couple from our very own continent, as the majority of people there were from Australia, the UK, other parts of Europe, or unidentifiable non-English speakers. The perfect part was their Oktoberfest dates landed on Sept. 24th, 25th, and 26th… The very same three days we were going. So of course we exchanged details and planned to meet up for a night of debauchery and 1-Liter German beer consuming.

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I believe I’ve changed my mind. I will have to retrieve my heart I had hoped to leave in Greece. Italy takes the cake.

Palatine Hill

We arrived an hour later than expected (thanks a lot Olympic airlines) into Rome Saturday night around 9:00pm. After a rough partial-sleep on the ferry from Crete to Athens that morning, and wandering Athens during the day in the pouring rain, all we wanted when we touched down in Rome was a horizontal spot to rest that wasn’t swaying back and forth over the sea.

Colors Boutique Hotel

Dylan had found and booked a room at Colors, a boutique hotel and hostel located within a 10-minute walk of Vatican City. Incredible place with extremely helpful staff, in an area where we weren’t paying an arm and a leg to eat or sleep.

We had a 3-person dorm with our own sink and shower for 2 nights. The first girl using up the other bed we hardly spoke to as she was in late and out by 5:00am.

The second night we met Rachel. Rachel was very cool to talk to as she was from Israel, and managed to give us the rundown, very passionately, on the history of Israel within the first 5 minutes of our encounter. She told us how boring Canada was as “nothing happens there,” but her enthusiasm and encouragement made me want to some day visit her in Israel.

The Colosseum & Gianicolo Hill

We were up bright and early on Sunday, Sept. 21st, knowing there was plenty to see in Rome. Our first stop was the Colosseum, which was free with the €20 Roma Pass we picked up, along with free entrance to another museum, discounts on all others, and free Metro, Bus and Tram use for 3 days. Outstanding deal.

The Colosseum, built in AD 80, was stunning. We spent a good hour there before passing Palatine Hill, putting our hands inside the Mouth of Truth and heading over the Tiber River to the Trastevere area for paninis. We then wandered up Gianicolo Hill for a few hours to take in exceptional views of the entire Ancient City.

Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon & Piazza Navona

In the afternoon we threw our coins in the Trevi Fountain and gasped at the sight of the 2000-year old Pantheon. We dined near the beautiful Castel Sant’Angelo on an exceptional (and best I have ever had) pizza and wine. That fueled us for the remainder of the evening of walking and taking in dozens of monuments and various squares including the truly Italian experience of Piazza Navona, previously an AD 1st Century stadium.

After the sun went down we strolled past the Piazza’s various vendors and artists. From one end where the sound of accordions filled the air, to the opposite end where we got up close and personal with the Fountain of Four Rivers as a busker played his rendition of one of my favourite songs on his weathered acoustic guitar- Pink Floyd’s “Wish You Were Here.”

With sore feet on Monday, Sept. 22nd- the 4 year anniversary of Lost- we checked out of Colors and deposited our backpacks at the train station and made our way again to the Trastevere area for a pasta lunch. In all honesty this was the first pasta I had in Rome, and I hate to say it but the Spaghetti Carbonara I had in Paris was a million times better. But, we had free WiFi and got in touch with our American buddies we met in Amsterdam, Brian and Elizabeth and sent some e-mails home, which is always nice.

Vatican City & The Sistine Chapel

Afterwards we made our way to Vatican City. Our first stop was the Vatican Museum, as we had to get in before 3pm in order to see it all before 4:30pm when they start kicking the art-lovers out.

We saw a slew of ancient artifacts, statues and tapestries though the maze of rooms, each painted from top to bottom with exceptional detail, leading up to the undeniable highlight: The Sistine Chapel.

Walking slowly with the flood of people into the Sistine Chapel I made certain not to look up until fully inside and beneath Michelangelo’s masterpiece, which was completed in the 16th Century. Craning my neck upwards it felt as though the world had come to a complete halt, and the sight of it- as cliche as it sounds- brought a tear to my eye. I really can’t even begin to describe it, and I won’t attempt to- it has to be seen to be believed.

We wandered St. Peter’s Basilica for a bit until our legs really needed a rest. That night we headed back towards the train station and unbelievably ran into Brian and Elizabeth. They were off elsewhere so Dylan and I, with a few hours to kill, found an amazing fresh pasta spot for dinner and wined and dined until we couldn’t lift our forks anymore. Two hours later on the way back once again we ran into Brian and Elizabeth on the Metro and followed them to the Spanish Steps to plan our Oktoberfest meeting for Thursday.

The night we took our first night train from Rome to Venice, killing two birds with one stone as we saved on accommodations and got our commute in. Venice is a whole other city and story to tell. But I sure am glad to have thrown that coin in the Trevi Fountain, as I am now ensured a speedy return in the future to breath-taking Rome… Where I really am leaving my heart.

I’ve been tracking down those I know, through various means, who have traveled through Europe and am gathering a collection of great tips. It’s a few months away still, but time will ultimately fly by all too quickly and I’ll do what I can now to prevent impending unpreparedness.

We’re flying into Frankfurt, Germany, the 8th largest airport in the world, and the 3rd busiest airport as far as passenger traffic goes in all Europe, behind London’s ‘Heathrow’ and Paris’s ‘Charles de Gaulle’. From there we’re traveling counter-clockwise through Western Europe: From Frankfurt to Amsterdam, the Netherlands for a while, then through Belgium & France down to Italy. There’s a possibility of a Greecian get-a-way in there, if we feel up to it (through a last-minute, inexpensive flight). Then before flying out of Frankfurt we’ll stop by Munich, for the 175th Oktoberfest. Only 101 days until it’s commencement date! Fitting way to end the trip, I’d say.

Oktoberfest began in 1810, a wedding celebration for the masses from crowned Prince Ludwig and his Princess Therese. The 16-day event sees around 6.2 million people each year at the Theresienwiese, from all over the world.

So, I now know from various sources to cross the busy roads with confidence, when in Rome. Coffee is less expensive in Venice when ordered standing up as opposed to seated at a table. To not use the convenient on-the-street toilet “pods” in Paris, pour des raisons de propreté (or, for cleanliness purposes, thank you cousin Ali). Tipping isn’t necessary, as it’s included on most restaurant bills. And Amsterdam is best experienced on bike… among many other tricks of the trade that will come to me only when faced with the journey.

Any other tips and advice are most welcome, even your own European (or non-European) vacation recollections, as I’m sure any information I can get will be of some use!